The Proper Care And Feeding of your Costume

Working on The CRÜE project involved working with lots of unconventional materials. Often times one garment consisted of different types of fabrics and trimming that are often incompatible with each other in a regular garment. I usually sew in care labels for my clients but in this case it just would have been too many labels to sew in. Case in point, one costume was made from “pleather”, covered with holographic lamé trim and embellished with metal studs. The costume was also accented with a special fabric paint for effect; How in the world would one maintain that? The rule of thumb here is to go with the most delicate fabric and use cleaning techniques compatible with that type of fabric. In this case was the lamé which requires hand washing with a delicate soap such as Dr. Bronner’s Pure Castile Soap pictured above.

Read more about the Proper Care and Feeding of your Costume:

Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a Costume by Antonia, thank you for your support of my work. Your costume was custom made by hand, specifically to your measurements. Proper care and feeding will result in years of wearing enjoyment.

Because your costume is made from non conventional materials that are trimmed with metal, I recommend special care and maintenance be applied, which may not always comply with the manufactures suggestions.

After your performance: I recommend turning your costume inside out and spraying it with vodka. Yes, vodka! Just use the cheapest bottom shelf plain vodka  (not flavored!). Pour the vodka into a clean spray bottle and spray the inside of your costume until it is fairly well saturated. Then allow it to air out for several hours until the vodka evaporates. As the vodka is evaporating, so will the perspiration and odors. I recommend doing this after every performance or as needed. Be sure to test a small amount to make sure it does not lift the color from the fabric.

You may also occasionally hand wash your costume in cool water and mild soap (excepts for the faux leather used for your body harnesses and belts. (I’ll get to below). Even though the manufactures’ instructions say that its ok to machine wash and tumble dry, DO NOT DO THIS!

The pleather, latex etc are also covered in studs and if you put it in the washer and or dryer, I can almost guarantee that you will loose all your studs and probably your washer/dryer too!

To hand wash, just soak them in cool water for about 30 minutes, gently agitate with your hand. Use a mild soap, I recommend Dr. Bronner’s Unscented Castile Soap for best results, but any mild soap is ok. After 30 minutes, gently press out the soapy water and rinse in cool water. I usually let it soak in fresh water for about 30 minutes, again agitating gently by hand. Then press out the water from the garment. If there is still any soap residue left, let it soak again in fresh water for about another 15 minutes. Press out the water and dry flat. This keeps the garment from distorting and allows it to retain its shape. If you don’t already have one, a drying rack is a good investment to ensure the longevity of your costume. The rack allows the air to circulate through the fibers so it can dry thoroughly. Once the item is completely dry, gently rebook into shape and hang folded in a cool dry place. Avoid storing it in your tour box because the fabric tends to “shrivel up” if it’s left folded for too long. If possible keep a packet of silica gel or a small block of cedar wood wherever your costume is stored to absorb moisture/humidity. This can be a problem in Houston! 

Care of your harnesses and belts: Do not immerse in water! Spray with the vodka if needed, otherwise just let it air out after your performance. You can also wipe it down with a moist washcloth and small amount of mild soap if it gets soiled. Store flat or on a hanger. You can occasionally condition the surface with a small amount of Vaseline, Baby Oil or Murphy’s Oil Soap. Apply with a soft cloth, then buff till the luster is restored.

DO NOT DRY CLEAN YOUR COSTUMES

DO NOT IRON YOUR COSTUME

DO NOT USE BLEACH

ALWAYS TEST A SMALL PATCH BEFORE ANY TREATMENT.

Enjoy wearing your costume!

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Please visit my website: costumesbyantonia.com

“Custom Made Fantasies From The Historical To The Hysterical”©

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Meet The Muse

Musidora
Actor, Writer, Film Maker. The Iconic Musidora

Meet Musidora

I am starting a new section in Newsletter: “Meet the Muse”, that honors cultural icons who influenced fashion, culture and the arts. The definition of Muse is generally attributed to a woman who is a source of inspiration, don’t be surprised to find guys and non-binary individuals in future posts.

Musidora as Irma Vep in “Les Vampires”

So as our first post in this category, it’s only natural that we begin with a woman with the solipsistic name of “Musidora”.  Born Jeanne Roques on February 23, 1889, Musidora , whose name means “Gift of the Muse”, was a silent screen actress, director and producer whose ghoulish exotic beauty captivated European audiences and served as a later inspiration for the likes of Theda Bara, Vampyra, Cat Woman and a dozen contemporary “Goths” such as Siouxsie Sioux and Courtney Love.

A young Musidora lets her hair down

She is best known for her starring role as Irma Vepp in the silent horror serial “Les Vampires”, directed by Louis Feuillade, who was also a ground breaking film maker in his own right. Feuillade was a great supporter of her work and went on to collaborate with her on one more film. “Judex”. After that, Musidora spread her wings, producing, writing, directing and starring on 10 more of her own films. Two of those were based on books written by her friend, the French novelist, Colette. Sadly all of her films are lost with the exception of two: “Soleil et Ombre” and “La Terre des Taureaux”. Of her collaboration with Feuillade, only “Les Vampires” still exists.

Musidora Spreads Her Wings

But just looking at those few surviving images flickering on the screen, it’s easy to see how she seduced audiences back in the day and how she continues to seduce us now. Her mannerisms and affectations look strangely contemporary and she continues to be imitated and satirized in modern culture. Everyone from Diamanda Gàlás to Elvira imitated her look. She was even the subject of a Drag satire, “The Mystery of Irma Vep” by Charles Ludlam and a 1996 update “Irma Vep” starring Maggie Cheung in the title role.

Musidora immortalized by Reneé Grau

Many filmmakers of note such as Luis Buñuel (Andalusian Dog) and Fritz Lang (Metropolis) credit her for inspiring their directorial style and the visual style of their films. The illustrator René Grau changed his painting style and began using only primary colors in her honor. So much was her influence that the French began referring to her as “La Dixieme Muse” (The Tenth Muse). Sadly with the onset of the talkies, Musidora’s acting career began to fade, but she did not let this minor detail stop her; She continued to write, produce and direct until her death in 1957.

An elegantly “toned down” Musidora

So the next time you apply thick dark eyeliner, enjoy an Ann Rice novel or consider wearing all black, remember the great debt that we owe to the Mother Muse of All Goths: Musidora.

Spawns of the Muse:  Can you name them all?

Would you like to see more of Musidora? Click on the images below to see her as Irma Vep in “Les Vampires”.

Click on image to watch.

Did you enjoy this Post? Please visit my website costumesbyantonia.com for more information about my custom made costume services, lessons and workshops.

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Meet The CRÜE!

Meet The CRÜE Tribute Band!

On Saturday January 18, 2020, The CRÜE made their debut at the BFE Club in Houston. This Mötley Crüe Tribute Band delivered a stunning performance to the delight of screaming fans. With a meticulous attention to details and a priority for authenticity, we were able to recreate the look and sounds of this iconic 80’s Glam Metal Band.

This inspired me to take a trip down Memory Lane:

Way back in 1983, in a different time, in a different world, I was a young 20 something winding down their studies at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, when I was conscripted by the F.I.T. Job Bank to intern for a project with a well known designer. The project involved assisting in the creation of dancer’s costumes for an entirely new concept known as a “Music Video”. So novel was the concept that the lady from the job bank said that music was meant to be heard, not watched! Remember at that time, MTV was just a fledgling second tier cable station that could not even get the broadcast rights in Manhattan! The fact that Strap Hangers in the Bridge & Tunnel communities were able to enjoy this cool new station but not the Manhattan trendsetters, sparked such an outrage that it spawned that ubiquitous ad campaign starring the top musicians of the day screaming: “I WANT MY MTV!”

Blink and you’ll miss it! Those are some badass leg warmers there!

The video was for a then unknown band who went by the unlikely name of Mötley Crüe. Or at least that was the name taped to the “Ditty Bags”. I had never heard of them nor did I ever meet the band members. Even if they did walk through Mr Legaspi’s studio, costume shop protocols dictates that anyone below the status of designer, could not speak or look at the performers, unless they were spoken to first.  Remember, the “costumes” were to be for dancers that had not even been cast yet. But the band’s name stuck and from then on my fellow internee and I would refer to each other as the “The Motley Crew”. Once my week long internship was over, I collected my mere pittance of a stipend and got on with my life. Several months later, Manhattan Cable tired of hearing the screaming demands of their audience, added MTV to their lineup. That, and another curiosity called a “24 hour news channel”, CNN. So imagine my surprise when I am sitting in my living room watching the latest “Haircut 100” video, or whatever. All of the sudden a “Premiere Video” began playing called “Looks That Kill” by non other than “Mötley Crüe”! YOWZA! I began screaming at my roommate: “LISA COME DOWN HERE! IT’S THAT VIDEO I TOLD YOU ABOUT!!!”. We watched the video together and it was really quite stunning in it’s look and presentation. It was the first time I had seen a band combine Glam and Metal and hence a new genre was coined: “Glam Metal”. Oh yes and I caught some brief glimpses of the leg warmers on the dancers that were cut and sewn by yours truly. I was a part of Rock’nRoll History. How ‘bout that?

Calling Dr. Stanislavsky! We have a serious case of over-acting here!

More importantly, who knew that nearly 36 years later I would be commissioned by a representative of “The Crüe”, a Tribute Band, to recreate their iconic Glam Metal costumes for a whole new generation! It was one of my most fun and challenging projects as I collaborated with the band members to bring back the sights and sounds of a previous era. By studying early concert footage and an abundance of images provided by The CRÜE, the original costumes were brought to life. And no, I did not have to cut and sew any leg warmers this time. Like I said, the project was challenging in the sense that many of the fabrications and embellishments were difficult to source. In particular because I live in a city that is lacking the infrastructure and skilled labor pool to support this type of business. So most of the materials had to be ordered in and finding reliable contractors to assist in the completion of the project was nearly impossible. Thankfully I was blessed to find the services of “Twisted Arrow Goods”, amazing leatherworkers here in Houston, who were able to lend their assistance to the completion of the project. Thanks to their enthusiasm and the enthusiasm of the band members, the baby was delivered in good health.

The Diligent Workers at Twisted Arrow Goods

So I would like to take you on a quick journey on the making of the Mötley schemata’s based on the original designs and given a modern twist for comfort and wearability. The authenticity of the costumes served to back up the strong performance they delivered last Saturday. The CRÜE’S masterly musicianship and spot on choreography, backed by the costumes helped to nail a killer performance, bringing us all back to those heady early days of Glam Metal.

“Vince Neil”

Doppelgänger, Vince Neil Costume

Vince’s costume was perhaps one of the most challenging to recreate. What appears to be a skimpy little harness with a codpiece and tight pants is really a miracle of engineering. Watching some of the original concert footage of the actual band, it was a bit painful to see all of the wardrobe malfunctions occurring as the real Vince sang and danced onstage. I was determined to not allow that to happen on my watch, so I made it my imperative that every component of this costume was securely anchored in place. Another challenge of this costume was finding the appropriate studs and nail heads. In particular the triangular pyramids which were sourced from a supplier in New York City. Seeing the final outcome is like seeing a the original come back to life. It’s said that in life we all have a doppelgänger and I think that Vince has found his.

“Mick Mars”

Looks that Kill, Mick Mars costume

Mick’s was probably one of the easiest to recreate as you can see the design is pretty straightforward in keeping with the artistic sensibilities of the artist. The CRÜE guitarist is  an excellent musician (actually they ALL are excellent) and so comfort was the number one priority here. My goal here was to create a costume that was totally authentic but at the same time allow the wearer to apply his art on stage to the thrill of the adoring fans.

“Tommy Lee”

Cute Dimples! Tommy Lee costume

Even though, I had seen the “Looks that Kill” video hundreds of times, I was still bedazzled by the amount of work on his pectoral and the complexity of the design. My approach was to break down the design, section by section then putting it all together. Our biggest challenge here was to reproduce the “dimpled” studs along the lower row of the pectoral. Remember, these original costumes were built way back in 1983 and some of these embellishments no longer exist. By employing a technique called “peening” we were able to recreate the “dimple” effect from a regular domed stud. It’s a pity Tommy has to sit behind the drum kit because the audience is denied seeing his cool costume. But he is a solid drummer and his tight beats leads the rest of the musicians through the set with stunning precision! 

“Nikki Sixx”

Hey Nikki you’re so fine! “Nikki Sixx” costume

Who can forget can forget Nikki with his under eye black stripes? Here, we recreated his 2 epaulets and a bias strapped body harness which was anchored to a double cross belt. It was important that every aspect of this costume be balanced, in particular because the larger epaulet was extremely heavy and sat on the right shoulder of his playing hand, it was crucial that this component sit securely  on the shoulder but not interfere with his guitar playing.

Would you like to see more?

Click here to see their debut performance at the BFE Club

Click on the image above to be directed to my YouTube Channel and you can see for yourself how their excellent musicianship and attention to detail served to nail an unforgettable performance. (Plus the costumes aren’t bad either!)

The CRÜE says: Follow this link to like us on FB!

To follow The CRÜE and their upcoming concerts please click here to be directed to their Facebook Page.

Did you enjoy this post? Please visit my website: costumesbyantonia.com your place for “Custom Made Fantasies From The Historical To The Hysterical”©

 

 

 

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